How to optimise your skincare routine as you get older

Clever marketing would have you believe that you need a 10-step skincare regime for healthy, resilient skin. The truth is (thankfully) much more straightforward.

We asked three skincare experts what really matters in every decade and how to adapt your routine as you age.

They all agreed that a simple routine built around barrier support, sun protection and a small number of well-evidenced actives is the best formula to help your skin look and feel great at any age. 

Whether you’re dealing with increased sensitivity during menopause or your skin’s feeling drier due to the shift in seasons, keep scrolling or click on the below links to find out how to be more strategic with your skincare at every age:

Our skincare experts

Do men and women need different skincare routines?

The short answer is no. 

'The basic advice is the same for both: sunscreen, sensible use of active skincare, moisturisation and lifestyle,' says Dr Mahto. 'The biggest difference is menopause, where women can experience a more noticeable shift in skin quality over a relatively short period as oestrogen falls, whereas the changes in men are usually more gradual. 

'Men may also need to think about shaving and folliculitis, but I wouldn't recommend a completely separate "men's anti-ageing" routine. The products should be chosen according to what the skin actually needs.'

Your 30s can be the perfect time to get into good habits to keep skin healthy and functioning well in the years to come.

As cumulative UV exposure is a major contributor to premature skin ageing and skin cancer, Dr Langton recommends prioritising daily sun protection, particularly if you have a lighter skin tone. ‘However, people with darker skin tones are certainly not immune to photoageing, so protecting skin from excessive sun exposure is relevant across all skin tones,’ she says.

If you’re concerned about signs of skin ageing, Dr Langton suggests trying a retinoid: ‘Starting earlier gives you the opportunity to support skin structure before more substantial age-related changes have accumulated.'

If you’re new to using retinoids, start low and slow to avoid irritating skin with a low-percentage formula (0.1% retinol, for example) and using it one to two times a week to start with. 

‘The most effective skincare routine is ultimately one that you can tolerate and use consistently,’ says Dr Langton.

Other skin actives worth considering at this stage are antioxidants like vitamin C to help protect skin against environmental aggressors, as well as peptides to support skin structure.

Get the lowdown on the  from our independent lab tests, plus our and  

Using a retinoid and sunscreen in your 40s is still an effective combo, says Dr Mahto.

This is because cumulative sun exposure can start to show more clearly as pigmentation, fine lines and uneven texture.

This can be a time when more noticeable skin changes appear, particularly if you're experiencing perimenopause. But don't be tempted to throw the kitchen sink at it, because overdoing it can backfire.

Ditto getting swept up in 'beauty' supplements. Many push biotin as a solution, but the reality is you need very small amounts, and it's easy enough to get from your diet.

‘I would focus on the basics first: avoid smoking, exercise regularly, prioritise sleep, eat enough protein and have a varied diet with plenty of fruit and vegetables,’ says Dr Mahto.

If you’re experiencing notable skin and hair changes, or any other concerning symptoms, it's worth seeing your GP to rule out any possible health issues or nutrient deficiencies that might be contributing.

What are the signs of iron deficiency? Find out more in our guide and see which were the  in our independent tests, plus get the lowdown on 

Dr Hextall tells us that she often sees patients in their 40s who have developed acne, rosacea and pigmentation issues that may have occurred during pregnancy and haven’t settled since. 

If that resonates, she recommends looking for ingredients such as salicylic acid to unblock pores and niacinamide to soothe skin and reduce post-blemish marks.

To give your skin barrier a helping hand, Dr Hextall recommends optimising your ‘gut-skin axis’ by eating a balanced fibre-rich diet.

 How to tap into the ‘gut-skin axis’, and what to watch out for 

Peri and post-menopausal skin can often feel dry due to a decline in hyaluronic acid levels. Hyaluronic acid is important for skin hydration and maintaining skin’s elasticity as it can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water.

To help counteract this, Dr Hextall recommends introducing a hyaluronic acid serum into your routine. ‘Always apply it to damp skin and applying a light moisturiser on top,’ she says. ‘This seals hydration in and gives skin a calm, hydrated, dewy appearance.’

Vitamin C serum and sunscreen are great options at any age. However, they can be particularly beneficial during this time. ‘Oestrogen has both a direct and an indirect antioxidant effect,’ explains Dr Hextall. ‘Its loss can leave skin more vulnerable to damage from external aggressors such as UV and pollution.’

If skin is sensitive, Dr Hextall recommends trying a vitamin C serum containing 10% (l -ascorbic acid) building up to a higher dose if needed. Do a patch test first – apply a pea-sized amount to a clean area of skin on your upper forearm or behind your ear and leave it for 24 hours to check for any irritation.

If sun spots or pigmentation are your primary concern, a broad-spectrum sunscreen and a retinoid (if you can tolerate it) are still effective staples.

: find out if they’re worth investing in, and what our experts recommendFind out more about the best things you can do for your skin as you age in our podcast episode

Dryness and skin barrier function can be helpful to prioritise in your 60s, says Dr Mahto.

‘Skin becomes less efficient at holding onto water and tends to become drier and more easily irritated with age,’ she explains.

Her advice is to use fewer products and stick to a simple routine with gentle cleansing, a good moisturiser and daily sunscreen, with retinoids continued if the skin still tolerates them. ‘This is often the point where adding more acids and exfoliants does more harm than good.’

One of the main reasons why skin can become drier in your 60s is due to the loss of ceramides in the skin. These act as the cement surrounding the ‘bricks’ of the skin barrier. 

Switching up your face cream to something richer and more moisturising can help. ‘I recommend using moisturisers with ingredients that are very similar to skin barrier fats, such as ceramides and shea butter,’ says Dr Hextall.

If you find you can no longer tolerate retinoids and are concerned about loss of firmness and fine lines, there are other options you can try. ‘There’s emerging evidence for peptide creams for encouraging collagen and elastin,’ says Dr Hextall.

You can also help support your skin barrier from within. ‘Don’t underestimate the value of dietary fats such as omegas 3 and 6 found in oily fish, nuts and seeds amongst others,’ says Dr Hextall.

Struggling to get enough omega-3 in your diet? These are the  according to our independent tests

Managing lifestyle factors may help too. ‘I’m very aware of the skin-brain-gut axis and aim to minimise inflammation in the skin and gut and reduce stress in my patients,’ says Dr Hextall. ‘Walking in nature, in my view, can really help to boost wellbeing, lower stress levels and help sleep. Stress disrupts the skin barrier so minimising it is key.’ 

During your 70s and 80s, focus continues to shift towards helping skin attract and maintain moisture levels. ‘Skin becomes less effective at maintaining its protective barrier and retaining the natural fats that help prevent water loss,’ says Dr Langton.

As result, skin can become drier and more sensitive and so Dr Langton recommends prioritising gentle cleansers, moisturising and sun protection.

‘I would also avoid excessively complicated routines,’ she says. ‘Older skin may be less tolerant of multiple active ingredients, and maintaining a healthy, comfortable skin barrier is more important than trying to use every available anti-ageing active.’

She recommends building a routine around skin-barrier maintenance. ‘We know that older skin remains biologically responsive to topical interventions, so there can still be benefits from introducing evidence-based skincare later in life.’

Essentially, less is more. For instance, you may want to use a lower-concentration retinoid serum a couple of times a week, giving your skin extra time to get to get used to it. Or apply it on top of a moisturiser so it absorbs more slowly. Alternatively, you may want to focus on using a peptide serum instead if skin laxity is something you’re concerned about.

Dr Hextall highlights the importance of a moisturising body care routine too, as people can often find that their lower legs and arms experience significant barrier disruption. ‘This is a time to really consider removing harsh foaming cleansers and shower gels and using gentle oil and milk body washes,’ she recommends. ‘Ceramide or urea-rich creams provide longer-lasting hydration.’

You can also up your skin's moisture levels by eating more omega-3-rich foods like nuts, seeds, avocados and oily fish.

Prioritise what you focus on

As our experts have shown, you don’t need to spend a lot of money to build a smarter skincare routine – a few considered swaps tailored to what your skin actually needs are better than a complete overhaul.

And, while there are common concerns that can be helpful to bear in mind as we age, it's important to do what's right for you. ‘What matters is what has actually changed,’ says Dr Mahto. ‘Useful questions to ask yourself are: is my skin drier? More pigmented? More sensitive? Am I now menopausal? Am I still dealing with acne?’ This will help you identify a key priority to build your routine around.

Finally, our experts recommend keeping expectations realistic about how much your skincare products can do. ‘Topical products can help with pigmentation, hydration, texture and fine lines; they can't replace lost facial volume, significantly tighten lax skin or remodel established acne scarring,’ says Dr Mahto. ‘That is where people can end up spending a lot of money on products for problems that products are never going to fix.’

source https://www.which.co.uk/news/article/how-to-optimise-your-skincare-and-adapt-your-routine-as-you-age-a7QYO4V1ixso